Frequently Asked Questions
What do you build?
Just about everything! I offer a catalog of popular sellers found in the main gallery including numerous original designs. All project ideas are welcome.
What is a normal turnaround time?
It depends on a variety of factors but generally 1-3 months.
What kind of materials do you work with?
Wood:
I work with red oak, maple and walnut. Custom requests beyond this are considered so please feel free to ask.
All are excellent hardwood choices that are both gorgeous and can take a beating (within reason of course).
Cabinet boxes are built with plywood at 3/4” thickness. I use high-quality, cabinet-grade plywood that is solid wood laminated into a sheet good form with hardwood veneers.
I also work with steel (most frequently in the form of table bases) and other miscellaneous materials.
How thick are tops?
Depending on your choice of thickness, hardwood tops are roughly 1” or 1 1/2” thick after the milling and build processes have been completed.
What are general dimensions?
Dining tables are generally made at 40” wide x 30” tall.
End tables are generally made at 14 1/2” square x 18” tall.
Desks are generally made at 28” deep x 29” tall.
Benches are generally 15” deep x 18” tall.
Do you have table top size recommendations?
I’ve had success with the following general suggestions:
Comfortable seating arrangements should allow for roughly 30” of width for each guest.
Rectangular:
5’ long seats 4-6 adults
6’ long seats 6-8 adults
7’ long seats 8-10 adults
8’ long seats 10-12 adults
A supporting image is shown at the bottom of this page.
Round:
3’ diameter seats 3-5 adults
4’ diameter seats 6-8 adults
5’ diameter seats 8-10 adults
6’ diameter seats 10-12 adults
What is the process?
Please send rough dimensions, inspiration pictures, descriptions of features, etc. to my email (nate.sprankle@gmail.com) and I will respond with rough pricing options. This information can be either for fully custom pieces or original, popular sellers in my portfolio (Gallery).
If these general prices are acceptable, I’m happy to meet in person at my shop in Cary to provide material and finish samples and to discuss details. If communicating remotely is easier, that’s fine too.
Once the final design is solidified in writing via email with supporting pictures (including CAD drawings if necessary), I request a deposit of 50% and will then put your piece(s) into my production queue. For both deposits and final payments, I accept Venmo, Zelle, CashApp, Apple Pay, PayPal, checks and cash.
I keep you updated with progress and will let you know when the piece(s) is complete. Final payment is due upon pick-up or delivery.
Are discounts available?
Discounts are available for pieces that aren’t finished (painted or stained). Discounts are also available for pieces that are built but not sanded or finished.
Other options are possible and I’m happy to get creative with you to meet your budget needs.
Do you deliver?
Pick up is free of course and I will assist with loading.
Assuming someone can lend a hand getting the piece inside, I do offer delivery for a fee. The cost is $100 base + $4/mile from the shop. I'm happy to have a colleague assist if no one is comfortable or available to help (fee is doubled).
How do I care for my piece(s)?
Keep solid wood pieces in stable environments. Solid wood moves with changes in temperature and humidity. While I use techniques that allow for this movement, it is important to keep pieces in stable environments to minimize exposure to huge swings in temperature and humidity that can result in a lot of movement and potential warping, splitting, etc. We’ve all seen enough decks, trim and furniture with splits, cracks, twists and bows - you name it. While none of this is ideal, it is part of the nature of solid wood and, with a little prevention, you can be sure that your piece(s) will last for generations to come.
I use very high-quality, professional-grade finishes that provide exceptional surface hardness, chemical and water resistance. However, they are not bulletproof. Here are a couple tips to keep your finishes looking great for years to come:
Rubio Monocoat Oil Plus 2C:
Cure Time: 80% cured in roughly 48 hours. 100% cured in roughly 7 days.
During Cure Time: Do not use liquids for cleaning the surface until fully cured. Only vacuum or dry dust the furniture during this time. Minimal or no use is ideal.
After Cure Time:
Surface Care Cleaner is highly recommended to clean (https://www.rubiomonocoatusa.com/products/surface-care-spray). Other products may damage the finish.
Use Renew when the surface feels too dry or rough or when the finish has worn down due to heavy use (https://www.rubiomonocoatusa.com/products/renew). Renew will maintain the original sheen.
Use Universal Maintenance Oil if you’d like to simultaneously increase the sheen and rejuvenate (https://www.rubiomonocoatusa.com/products/universal-maintenance-oil). Note that once Universal Maintenance Oil has been applied to a surface, future maintenance must be performed using Universal Maintenance Oil. If color restoration is required, perform a renovation using Oil Plus 2C in the original color.
Repairing Scratches:
Rubio Monocoat oil bonding technology allows local touch up of damaged areas or scratches:
Order a sample bottle of the original color. Note that the sample bottles don’t come with the accelerator and will take roughly 21 days to fully cure. This is acceptable for small areas.
Sand the repair area as needed to remove damage and expose raw wood (only if needed). Keep the perimeter as small as possible. Sand with the grain with moderate pressure with 150 grit sandpaper.
Apply the oil with a cotton cloth, Scotch-Brite pad or similar. Work the finish into the grain in a circular manner. Avoid overlap with surrounding areas as you will increase the sheen inadvertently.
Let it react for 3-5 minutes. Wipe the excess oil off with a clean cloth. Wipe completely dry.
If the spot appears dull (a slight sheen difference is to be expected), a second application the following day often helps.
Conversion Varnish (past finish):
Cure Time: Approximately 14 days in a normal, air-conditioned home.
During Cure Time: Be gentle. Use coasters and table cloths, avoid leaving wet glasses on the surface, avoid heat contact, etc. To clean, use a soft sponge lightly dampened with water, immediately followed by a gentle buffing with a soft cotton cloth that absorbs water and does not leave micro-scratches.
After Cure Time: To clean, use RTU (ready-to-use) glass cleaner. To disinfect, use a neutral pH disinfectant. Any disinfectant with a high pH (above 8.5) may dull or slowly strip the finish. Many floor cleaners such as Simple Green come in spray bottles and have neutral pHs (https://simplegreen.com/products/multi-surface-floor-care/).
Paint/Pigmented Lacquer:
Cure Time:
Paint: Approximately 2-4 weeks in a normal, air-conditioned home.
Pigmented Lacquer: Approximately 100 hours in a normal, air-conditioned home.
During Cure Time: Be gentle. Use coasters and table cloths, avoid leaving wet glasses on the surface, avoid heat contact, etc. To clean, use a soft sponge lightly dampened with water, immediately followed by a gentle buffing with a soft cotton cloth that absorbs water and does not leave micro-scratches.
After Cure Time: To clean, use a mild soap and water.
Powder Coats:
Cure Time: Immediately (none).
During Cure Time: NA.
After Cure Time: To clean, use a mild soap and water.
All:
Minimize direct contact with heat.
Use coasters.
While different formulas have various resistances to vinegar, citrus juices, ketchup, coffee, cooking oils and different blends of alcohols, it is still recommended to clean up food and liquid spills relatively quickly.
Don’t clean with any other harsh chemicals or solvents.
Use a mouse pad when using an external computer mouse.
Sun exposure through windows is okay but know that slight ambering will occur over time in most transparent and semi-transparent finishes. This will be less noticeable with darker finishes.
Do you warranty your work?
While I don’t offer an explicit warranty, I stand behind my work and want all my clients to be fully satisfied. I’m happy to cover any issues related to workmanship. With that being said, I don’t cover issues related to normal wear and tear, misuse, abuse or moisture/humidity issues.
Why custom?
Skill and knowledge: I have invested thousands of hours honing my craft and am constantly looking for ways to improve to create the highest quality pieces.
Time: Attention to detail is paramount. Pieces are not rushed.
Investment: You’re paying for a quality product out of high-end materials that will last generations.
